These tend to be of limited use - almost all punctures are point piercings of your tube, so a round patch will work just fine. Most patches are round, but glued kits often contain oval patches too. They're also a lot more compact than kits with glue, so they're much easier to carry around. Most glueless patches, on the other hand, have almost limitless longevity, so they'll be there for you when you do get that puncture. Even a sealed tube can dry out, particularly if you let it get hot. A sealed tube has more longevity, but once opened you may find that it's either a viscous liquid or solid by the time you want to use it again. The other consideration is that the solvent in rubber solution will dry up quickly. It probably won't hurt you much the amount most cyclists will be using it, but it's something to bear in mind. But for on-the-road repairs it means more to take with you, while the rubber solution itself is emblazoned with Harmful notices in big letters. In our experience, patches which need to be glued on give a more durable repair than glueless patches. The main choice with the best puncture repair kits is whether to go for the traditional patches that need a separate tube of rubber solution or the newer glueless patches. Buyer's guide to the best puncture repair kits Glue or glueless? As with the others on test you must ensure that the tyre is prepared well and is clean for the best adhesion to occur.Īs the Lezyne kit has both a tyre boot and inner tube patches, both of which are the match for anything on test, it comes highly recommended. It was reassuringly sticky and stayed in place for the ride. 50mm x 30mm and it applied to the tyre well. The Lezyne Smart kit (inner tube repair mentioned above) also includes a tyre repair patch. I used a Clean Streak aerosol cleaner which worked well and all 3 patches stayed put during the test. If you have any tubeless sealant inside the tyre carcass it must be thoroughly cleaned off first as the glue won't stick otherwise. They are applied inside the tyre between the tyre and inner tube (if used) and can stop that hole or slash from allowing other road debris into the tyre causing further problems. Sometimes the body of the tyre gets a hole which needs fixing to get you home, and this is where a tyre boot can help out. So it did get me home, but would've probably needed another repair to keep reliable. The central section (over the hole) had though. The patch held pressure throughout the test but on checking the inner tube afterwards the edges of the patch hadn't stayed glued. I needed to roll the patch around the tube to get it to stick on fully. This gives more glued area to contact with however, on a narrow 20-28mm width road inner tube, the patch overhung the tube edges. I even remember using 2/3 for those larger holes lol.The Rehook Gooeys patches came in a pack that was very similar in size and weight to the Park GP-2's and they were the largest square patches on test (just) measuring 26mmx26mm. I think the ones we had were called sure seal? Not sure but they were orange in colour and never had one leak or pop out in 20 years. The plugs are good too, I'm not against them. So I took the extra patches I had in my box and the tools reemer/driver and put them in my truck for a emergency.Īt first I hated doing them (patch) but it does make a better repair, you remove the tire, replace valve stem, clean the rim, balance etc. When the bossman abolished the plug, he stopped ordering them and said he didn't want to see any plugging tools in the shop period. Half the time the tires have side wall damage so it gets a new tire anyway. We do fleet work for large rental car company's and they specifically want a patch from the inside and want a close inspection of the sidewall. The reason the plugs are a problem is that you don't remove tire from the rim to inspect for damage to the side wall when driven on flat.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |